In the heart of Eastern North Carolina, where the air hangs heavy with the scent of smoldering oak and slow-roasted pork, barbecue isn’t just a meal—it’s a ritual, a cultural cornerstone passed down through generations. What follows is a mouthwatering odyssey through five legendary spots, each a masterclass in the Eastern style: whole hogs transformed into smoky, succulent perfection over 16-20 hours of low-and-slow cooking. Forget heavy sauces; here, the pork’s natural essence shines, enhanced only by a splash of vinegar and the crunch of fresh sides.
Wiens, ever the enthusiastic guide with his signature wide-eyed wonder, dives deep into the region’s dual barbecue heritage—contrasting the Eastern whole-hog tradition with the Western Lexington-style focus on shoulders and tomato-tinged slaw. But it’s the Eastern method that steals the show: entire pigs, seasoned simply with salt, flipped mid-cook to pool their juices like liquid gold, and finished with crisped skin for textural magic. As Wiens puts it, this is “melted pig” at its finest—tender, fatty, and unapologetically flavorful.
Stop 1: The Skylight Inn, Ayden – The Gold Standard of Chopped Glory
Our journey kicks off at The Skylight Inn, a pilgrimage site for barbecue aficionados since 1947. Tucked in the tiny town of Ayden, this no-frills joint embodies purity: 185-200-pound hogs roasted skin-side down over glowing coals, the hide acting as a natural basin for rendering fats. Wiens captures the drama of the chop—heads removed to unleash a torrent of juices, cleavers dancing to blend meat, fat, and shatteringly crisp skin into a glistening tray.
The result? A life-altering pile of pork that’s equal parts melt-in-your-mouth tenderness and satisfying crunch. Served family-style with dense cornbread (practically a brick of cornmeal bliss) and tangy coleslaw, it’s balanced by a light vinegar sauce that lets the 18-hour smoke speak for itself. “That is the meat of your dreams,” Wiens raves, his fork disappearing into the juicy chaos. For purists, this is barbecue nirvana—smoky, unmasked, and utterly addictive.
Stop 2: Bum’s Restaurant, Ayden – Shredded Soul with Southern Flair
Just a stone’s throw away, Bum’s Restaurant offers a contrasting twist on the whole-hog theme. This diner-style haven shreds its oak-smoked pork into long, ropey strands, dusted with pepper for a vinegary zing that dances on the tongue. Wiens marvels at the brick-lined smokehouse, where vents control the haze for even flavor infusion.
The plate arrives heaped with this stringy delight, flanked by Southern staples: buttery lima beans that practically dissolve, soft collard greens infused with smoky depth, creamy potato salad, and crispy corn sticks that shatter like autumn leaves. A side of fried chicken adds golden crunch, proving Bum’s mastery extends beyond pork. It’s a comforting, hearty affair—less chop, more pull-apart poetry—that feels like a warm hug from North Carolina’s culinary past.
Stop 3: B’s Barbecue, Greenville – Lean, Mean, and Smoky Clean
Venturing to Greenville, Wiens races against the clock to B’s Barbecue, a locals’ secret where the chicken often vanishes by noon (alas, it did on his visit). What remains is whole-hog magic: leaner shreds with a pristine smokiness, lightly kissed by a chili-flecked vinegar sauce. The pork’s subtlety shines—no grease overload, just pure, clean flavor that lingers like a gentle haze.
Sides steal bites here too: crisp, juicy coleslaw for refreshment and stewed “leftover” potatoes swimming in sauce for earthy comfort. Hush puppies and fries round out the plate, but it’s the unpretentious hospitality—Wiens chatting with staff amid the rush—that elevates the experience. B’s proves barbecue can be light on its feet, rewarding the early bird with treasures untold.
Stop 4: Grady’s Barbecue, Dudley – A Family Feast of Smoke and Soul
In the sleepy hamlet of Dudley, Grady’s Barbecue feels like stepping into a family reunion. Slow-cooked over coals in time-honored pits, their whole hog joins forces with smoked turkey and chicken on a menu that’s a love letter to Southern abundance. Wiens digs into tender pork that falls apart effortlessly, its fat-smoke balance perfected, alongside black-eyed peas studded with ham hocks and fragrant collards that scream freshness.
The stars? Buttery lima beans, sour-cream-dream potato salad, crispy hush puppies, and a lightly battered fried chicken that’s moist to the core. Don’t skip the desserts: nutmeg-kissed sweet potato pie or layered banana pudding for a sweet coda. Sauces range from mild vinegar to a fiery “old-fashioned” chili blend, but Wiens highlights matriarch Mrs. Grady’s warmth as the real spice. This spot isn’t just food—it’s fellowship, where every bite tells a story.
Stop 5: Wilber’s Barbecue, Goldsboro – Ribs, Relish, and Rib-Tickling Fun
Crowning the tour in Goldsboro, Wilber’s—open since 1962—delivers with original pits and a menu that nods to excess in the best way. The chopped whole hog is medium-textured and vinegary, but the “leftover” picnic ribs from hog racks are the wildcard: meaty, bone-slick slabs that slide clean with zero effort, thanks to fire-crisped skin and 20-hour tenderness.
Wiens devours baby backs (a Saturday special) rubbed sweet and smoky, paired with squash simmered in onions for soft subtlety, crunchy fried okra, and gravy-dippable hush puppies. Coleslaw adds snap, potato salad creaminess—it’s a symphony of sides that tempers the pork’s richness. “The bone becomes that clean without even trying,” Wiens laughs, capturing the effortless joy. Wilber’s blends tradition with playfulness, proving barbecue can be both reverent and rowdy.
Why North Carolina’s Whole Hog Reigns Supreme
Through Wiens’ lens, Eastern North Carolina emerges as barbecue’s beating heart—a place where time bends to the fire’s rhythm, and pork is elevated to art. These five kings showcase the spectrum: from Skylight’s iconic chop to Wilber’s rib revelry, united by oak smoke, minimal intervention, and sides that harmonize like a gospel choir. It’s not about sauce showdowns; it’s the hog’s humble glory, the camaraderie of the table, and the quiet pride of pitmasters who treat every cook like sacred duty.
As Wiens wraps his tour, he echoes a universal truth: “BBQ is something you must eat—it’s a huge part of the local culture.” Whether you’re a first-timer or a seasoned smoker, this video (and these spots) beckons. Fire up your playlist, grab a napkin, and let the smoke pull you in. Your taste buds will thank you.
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