As families across China prepare for Lunar New Year, the reunion dinner table fills with symbolic dishes that carry wishes for prosperity, happiness, and abundance in the coming year. Among the classics of Shanghainese cuisine, one cold appetizer stands out for its irresistible flavor and festive significance: Shanghai Smoked Fish (上海熏鱼, Xūn Yú).

Despite its name, Shanghai Smoked Fish is not truly smoked. The “smoky” allure comes from a unique cooking technique—deep-frying the fish until golden and crisp, then immediately soaking the piping-hot pieces in a cooled, aromatic sweet-savory soy sauce marinade. The result is a dish with a crunchy exterior, tender and juicy interior, and a glossy, deeply flavorful glaze that makes it utterly addictive. Served chilled or at room temperature, it is the perfect make-ahead appetizer that only improves with time.

In Chinese culture, fish (鱼 yú) is an essential Lunar New Year dish because its pronunciation is a homophone for “surplus” or “abundance” (余 yú). The traditional New Year greeting “nián nián yǒu yú” (年年有余) literally means “may you have surplus year after year,” symbolizing the hope for wealth and plenty. Shanghai Smoked Fish embodies this auspicious meaning while showcasing the distinctive sweet profile of Shanghainese cooking.

An Authentic Home-Style Recipe

This recipe serves 4–6 as part of a larger festive spread and is ideally prepared a day in advance to allow the flavors to fully penetrate the fish.

Ingredients

For the fish:

• 1.5–2 lbs (700–900 g) firm freshwater fish such as grass carp, black carp, or substitutes like catfish fillets, pomfret, or kingfish steaks, cut into 2-inch thick pieces or steaks
• 2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine
• 1 teaspoon salt
• A few slices of ginger and scallion stalks
• Optional: a pinch of five-spice powder

For the marinade sauce:

• 1 cup water
• 100 g rock sugar (or substitute brown sugar)
• 3 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
• Spices: 2 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
• A few slices of ginger and scallion stalks
• Optional: a splash of black vinegar for a subtle tang
• Neutral oil for deep-frying

Instructions

1. Marinate the fish: Pat the fish pieces dry. Combine them with Shaoxing wine, salt, ginger slices, and scallion stalks in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight.
2. Prepare the sauce: In a small pot, lightly sauté the ginger, scallion, and whole spices in a teaspoon of oil until fragrant. Add the water, rock sugar, light and dark soy sauces, and Shaoxing wine. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 15–20 minutes until the sugar dissolves completely and the sauce thickens slightly. Strain out the solids and let the sauce cool completely to room temperature or chill it in the refrigerator. Cooling is crucial to maintain the fish’s crisp texture later.
3. Deep-fry the fish: Heat oil in a wok or deep pot to 350–375°F (180°C). Carefully fry the marinated fish pieces in batches until they turn golden brown and crispy, about 5–8 minutes depending on thickness. Drain on paper towels.
4. Soak in sauce: While the fish is still hot, immediately submerge the pieces in the cooled sauce. You may hear a satisfying sizzle as the crispy skin absorbs the marinade. Let the fish soak for at least 30 minutes; for the deepest flavor, refrigerate overnight.
5. Serve: Arrange the fish on a platter and serve cold or at room temperature. A sprinkle of fresh scallion greens makes a simple yet elegant garnish.

Tips for Success

• Shanghainese cuisine is known for its balanced sweetness; adjust the amount of rock sugar to your preference.
• Preparing the dish a day ahead allows the sauce to fully infuse the fish while keeping the exterior pleasantly crisp.
• Exercise caution when adding hot fried fish to the cool sauce, as it may splatter.

Shanghai Smoked Fish pairs beautifully with steamed rice and richer dishes like red-braised pork belly or lion’s head meatballs, rounding out a traditional Lunar New Year feast.

This humble yet sophisticated appetizer captures the essence of Shanghainese home cooking and the spirit of the holiday: abundance, family togetherness, and delicious beginnings for the year ahead. Gong xi fa cai—may the new year bring you prosperity and joy! 🧧🐟

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