In ancient Rome, wine was far more than a simple beverage—it was a daily staple, a social lubricant, and often a vehicle for bold flavors. While most Romans consumed their wine diluted with water and sometimes plain, one luxurious preparation stood out for its intensity and extravagance: conditum paradoxum, or “surprise spiced wine” (also translated as “marvelous spiced wine” or “incredible spiced wine”). This honeyed, boldly flavored drink holds a place of honor as the very first recipe in De re coquinaria (On the Subject of Cooking), the famous Roman cookbook attributed to Apicius and compiled between the 1st and 4th centuries AD.
Wine in Roman Daily Life and Festivities
Romans drank wine at nearly every meal, but it was rarely consumed undiluted. Everyday varieties ranged from cheap, coarse wines made from the third pressing of grapes (often reserved for slaves) to prized vintages like Falernian, celebrated for its quality and even served by figures like Julius Caesar. Spiced wines, known collectively as conditum (meaning “spiced”), were flavored after fermentation and represented a step toward luxury. Among these, conditum paradoxum was especially prized, likely enjoyed during festivals such as Saturnalia—the mid-December celebration of feasting, gift-giving, role reversal (where slaves were served by masters), and merriment. Its warming spices and rich sweetness made it a perfect winter indulgence, akin to a proto-mulled wine.
The Original Recipe from Apicius
The recipe in Apicius provides precise proportions for a large batch, reflecting the scale of Roman entertaining. A standard translation describes it as follows:
Place about 15 pounds (roughly 7 kg) of honey and 2 pints (around 1 liter) of wine in a bronze vessel. Heat gently over a slow fire, stirring constantly with a stick or whip. As it approaches boiling, add a dash of cold wine to control the simmer, then remove from the heat and skim off impurities. Repeat this heating, cooling, and skimming process two or three times to thicken the mixture and purify it.
Once cooled and skimmed, incorporate the spices: 4 ounces (about 120 grams) of ground pepper, 3 scruples (roughly 3–4 grams) of mastic resin (from the mastic tree, adding a piney aroma), a dram each (around 4–5 grams) of aromatic leaves (likely bay or similar) and saffron, plus 5 date pits (roasted and pounded) and dates softened in wine. Finally, add around 18 sextarii (approximately 10–11 liters) of light white wine. If the mixture tastes bitter, correct it with charcoal. Let it settle, then strain finely.
The result was an intensely sweet concentrate—more syrup-like than typical wine—dominated by honey, with a surprising peppery kick, earthy saffron notes, and subtle pine or anise undertones from mastic. The “paradox” in its name likely refers to this unexpected contrast: overwhelming sweetness paired with sharp, warming spices that could make it feel invigorating even when served cold.
Why It Was So Special
Romans valued spices like pepper, saffron, and mastic as exotic luxuries, often imported at great cost. Combining them with vast quantities of honey created a drink that was both medicinal (pepper was thought warming and digestive) and celebratory. Unlike everyday diluted wine, conditum paradoxum was a statement—reserved for special occasions or as an aperitif to begin a grand meal.
Modern Interpretations and How to Try It Today
Contemporary recreators often scale down the original for home use, reducing the honey significantly to make it more palatable without dilution, while staying true to the spirit of the recipe. A typical modern version for one 750 ml bottle might use:
- 1 bottle of dry white wine (a light, perhaps resinated variety like retsina for authenticity)
- 1–1½ cups honey (adjusted for taste)
- 1–2 tablespoons crushed black pepper
- A pinch of saffron
- 1–2 bay leaves
- Optional: a small piece of mastic resin (or fennel seeds as a substitute), and 1–2 softened dates
The process involves gently heating a portion of the wine with honey to simmer and skim (repeated 2–3 times), adding the spices and dates, cooling, straining, and blending with the remaining wine. Many serve it chilled or warmed like mulled wine, often diluted with water to balance the sweetness.
Tasters describe it as starting with a rush of honey, followed by individual spice pops—peppery warmth on the finish, subtle pine from mastic, and saffron’s earthiness. It can be an acquired taste, bold and syrupy at first, but surprisingly addictive once adjusted.
This ancient spiced wine offers a fascinating glimpse into Roman sophistication: a blend of everyday indulgence with exotic flair, perfect for raising a glass in the spirit of Saturnalia. As the ancients might have toasted: Salutaria! 🍷
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