In the heart of New York City’s Greenwich Village, Dame stands out as a beloved English seafood restaurant, co-owned by British-born chef Ed Szymanski and Patricia Howard. What began as a pandemic-era pop-up has become a destination for one of the city’s finest takes on the iconic British dish: fish and chips. Szymanski’s version earns rave reviews for its exceptionally light, airy batter that forms delicate, frilly, lacy edges around the fish, paired with ultra-crisp chips (fries) boasting fluffy interiors. Drawing inspiration from precision techniques like those of Heston Blumenthal, yet adapted to high-quality local ingredients, his approach transforms a simple pub staple into restaurant-worthy perfection.
The foundation of Dame’s excellence lies in meticulous moisture control and clever ingredient choices. Szymanski starts with the fish—typically hake, a firm, flaky white fish with mild flavor and low moisture content, sourced locally along the Atlantic coast (though cod or haddock work well as alternatives). Portions are around 6 ounces per serving.
To ensure maximum crispiness, he dry-brines the fish by rubbing it with kosher salt and lemon zest (avoiding juice to prevent “cooking” the flesh like ceviche). The fillets rest uncovered on a wire rack in the refrigerator for 4 to 8 hours (or at least a couple of hours). This step draws out excess moisture—Szymanski emphasizes that “moisture is your enemy” in frying—resulting in firmer, better-seasoned fish that fries up light and tender without sogginess.
The batter is where the magic truly happens, creating that signature delicate, craggy crust with nooks and crannies. It combines all-purpose flour for structure, rice flour for superior crunch and longevity (similar to techniques used in Asian fried chicken), and a touch of baking powder for aeration and puff. The liquids are key: cold vodka lowers the batter’s evaporation point, forming a quick, protective shell that steams the fish inside while minimizing oil absorption; fizzy light lager like Narragansett provides carbonation for bubbles and lightness (avoid heavy, hoppy, or low-carbonation beers, as they can impart bitterness or fail to aerate properly). The batter is whisked gently—lumps are intentional to limit gluten development and keep it tender. Keeping everything cold enhances the final texture.
For the chips, Szymanski uses peeled Idaho russet potatoes cut into thick chunks (they shrink during cooking). After soaking to remove starch, they’re boiled in generously salted water starting from boiling to break down exterior cell walls and create more surface area for crispiness. Drained gently and chilled (often over multiple days for optimal results), the potatoes undergo a multi-step fry: first at a lower temperature to cook the interior and set craggy edges, then drained and chilled again, and finally fried at high heat for golden, ultra-crunchy exteriors with fluffy insides. This “thrice-cooked” method (boil plus double-fry) is essential for that ideal contrast.
A homemade tartar sauce adds brightness: a base of equal parts mayonnaise and crème fraîche mixed with chopped cornichons, capers, shallots, fresh herbs (like chives, dill, and parsley), lemon zest, garlic, mustard, vinegar, and a dash of malt vinegar for authentic tang.
Frying happens in neutral oil at around 350°F (177°C). The cured fish is lightly dusted in seasoned flour (with salt and white pepper), dipped in the cold batter (letting excess drip and shaking for those frilly edges), and sometimes topped with extra batter spoonfuls for crispy bits. The fish fries first for 2–3 minutes per side until light golden, creating a protective shell that steams the interior delicately. Chips follow in the high-heat second fry. Everything drains on a wire rack, gets an immediate sprinkle of flaky sea salt, and is spritzed (not soaked) with malt vinegar from a spray bottle for even acidity without sogginess.
Served stacked—chips as the base, fish atop, with extra batter scraps, a generous dollop of tartar sauce, and a lemon wedge—the dish invites eating with hands. Start with a chip dipped in sauce, then dive into the fish for the full experience of crunch, tenderness, and bright zing.
Szymanski’s fish and chips prove that simplicity, when executed with precision, yields extraordinary results. By focusing on fresh ingredients, moisture management, and smart tweaks like vodka and rice flour, he delivers a version that stands proudly alongside the best in Britain—right in the middle of New York City.
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