Kolkata, often called the City of Joy, boasts a food scene steeped in nostalgia, ritual, and bold flavors that blend street-side simplicity with refined Bengali heritage. Renowned chef Asma Khan—founder of London’s celebrated Darjeeling Express and originally from Kolkata—offers an insider’s guide to her favorite spots. In a special feature and video series by Condé Nast Traveler (released in late 2025), she shares the places that fuel her homecomings, evoking childhood memories and the unique rhythm of eating in Bengal.
Asma emphasizes that Kolkata’s cuisine is about more than just food—it’s tied to emotion, seasonality, and tradition. Whether it’s a quick bite straight from the airport or a celebratory thali, her picks capture the essence of the city she still calls home.
Kwality on Park Street: The Instant Homecoming
The first stop for Asma upon arriving in Kolkata is almost always Kwality, the iconic Park Street restaurant. She often heads there directly from the airport, craving their signature chana bhatura—a puffed fried bread paired with a hearty chickpea curry and served with those distinctive sliced pinkish-orange onions. This dish, a staple of Kolkata’s “continental”-style Indian dining, instantly signals arrival in her beloved city. It’s nostalgic comfort food that feels quintessentially Kolkata.
Sonargaon at Taj Bengal: A Splurge on Authentic Bengali Heritage
For a special meal or during festivals like Pohela Boishakh (Bengali New Year), Asma heads to Sonargaon at the Taj Bengal hotel. She praises their elaborate Bengali thali as a highlight, featuring standout dishes like shorshe bhekti (a mustard-crusted river fish fry), mutton kosha (slow-cooked goat curry), alu dom (spiced potatoes), begun bhaja (fried eggplant), luchi (puffed bread), various chutneys, and classic desserts such as mishti doi or rasgulla. The restaurant delivers heritage Bengali cuisine with elegance and authenticity, making it ideal for family gatherings or when craving elevated traditional flavors.
UP & Bihar Restaurant: The Best Kathi Rolls
When it comes to Kolkata’s famous kathi rolls, Asma prefers UP & Bihar Restaurant over more touristy spots like Nizam’s. She recommends the double-chicken with single-egg version—featuring a thin egg layer on the paratha but packed with generous chicken filling. The casual vibe and hearty portions make it a go-to for this beloved street-food staple.
K.C. Das on Esplanade: Seasonal Kachoris and Sweet Nostalgia
Though legendary for Bengali sweets like rasgulla, K.C. Das is where Asma goes for seasonal kachoris. In monsoon, she opts for the hing (asafoetida)-flavored one; in winter, it’s the mildly spiced green pea version—served with cholar dal (split chickpeas) or alu dum. Affordable, historic (dating back to the early 1900s), and full of emotion, it’s more than a shop—it’s a cherished ritual.
The Curry Leaf and Jyoti Vihar: South Indian Favorites
For excellent South Indian fare, Asma frequents The Curry Leaf near her apartment for dosas and idlis with standout coconut chutney. She also loves Jyoti Vihar near the US Embassy on Ho Chi Minh Sarani—expect queues, but the authentic flavors and quality make it worthwhile.
Other Mentions
Asma nods to classics like Mocambo for Kolkata-style “continental” dishes (think prawn cocktail) and spots like Aminia or others for biryani and more, highlighting the city’s diverse yet deeply rooted eating culture.
Asma Khan’s recommendations remind us that Kolkata’s food is about balance: affordable street eats, nostalgic haunts, and refined heritage experiences. If you’re planning a visit, start with chana bhatura at Kwality for that immediate sense of belonging, then indulge in a thali at Sonargaon to fully embrace Bengali culinary traditions. The city’s vibrant scene rewards those who eat with an open heart and empty stomach—much like home.
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