Kolhapuri chappals, the iconic handcrafted leather sandals from Kolhapur in Maharashtra, represent far more than footwear. With their distinctive open-toe design, braided straps, T-strap, and toe loop, these slip-ons embody centuries of artisanal ingenuity. Made entirely without nails through meticulous hand-stitching using vegetable-tanned leather—primarily buffalo or cattle hide—they are celebrated for their unmatched durability, supreme comfort, and earthy elegance. Yet, despite their global recognition and a Geographical Indication (GI) tag granted in 2019, this traditional craft stands at a crossroads, its rich heritage increasingly at risk of being lost.
Roots in History
The origins of Kolhapuri chappals trace back to the 12th and 13th centuries, with early influences linked to rulers such as King Bijjala of the Kalachuri dynasty. The craft gained significant momentum in the 18th century under the patronage of Kolhapur’s Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj and his successors, who established tanning centers to support the industry. The modern version evolved from the thinner “Kanwali” style—also known as “chappal with ears”—in the early 20th century. Families like the Saudagars played a pivotal role in refining and commercializing these sandals, which soon found popularity in Mumbai and across Maharashtra.
Traditionally practiced by communities such as the Chamars, the making of Kolhapuri chappals is a labor-intensive process passed down through generations. It involves selecting and tanning hides, cutting precise patterns, intricate braiding, hand-stitching, dyeing, and final embellishments. An elaborate pair can take weeks to complete, though simpler versions are produced more quickly. These unisex sandals are inherently sustainable when made using traditional methods and, with proper care, can last a lifetime—provided they are kept away from prolonged exposure to water.
The Looming Crisis
Despite their enduring appeal—boosted during the 1970s hippie movement and influencing modern toe-ring sandal designs—the craft faces severe challenges that justify talk of a “lost legacy.” Artisans, numbering between 5,000 and 10,000 in the Kolhapur region, struggle with meager earnings, sometimes netting as little as ₹80 per pair. Fierce competition from cheap machine-made imitations, often sourced from China or Pakistan, and mass-market brands has eroded demand for authentic pieces. Shifting consumer preferences toward minimalist or trendy footwear further compound the problem.
Raw material shortages pose another major hurdle. Maharashtra’s cow and bull slaughter ban since 2015 has severely disrupted leather supplies, forcing many tanneries to close. Stringent environmental regulations have added to the operational burdens. Perhaps most concerning is the erosion of skills: younger generations are reluctant to take up this physically demanding, low-paying work, often associated with specific castes. Annual production hovers around 600,000 pairs, with roughly 30 percent exported, but the overall market value remains modest.
The market is also flooded with fakes and low-quality duplicates, making it difficult for genuine artisans to command fair prices. Without strong branding or modernization efforts, authentic Kolhapuris risk being overshadowed in both domestic and international markets.
Global Spotlight and Controversy
In June 2025, the craft received unexpected international attention when Italian luxury brand Prada showcased braided leather sandals strikingly similar to Kolhapuris on its Milan runway. Priced at over ₹1.2 lakh ($800+), the designs were presented without acknowledging their Indian origins, triggering widespread outrage over cultural appropriation. Artisans, industry bodies like the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce and Industry (MACCIA), and even a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) in the Bombay High Court demanded recognition, fair compensation, and stricter enforcement of the GI tag.
Following the backlash, Prada acknowledged the inspiration and initiated collaborative efforts, including limited production in India, training programs for artisans, and partnerships with leather development bodies. While this has increased visibility and generated some additional sales, concerns remain that such arrangements may position Indian craftsmen primarily as skilled labor rather than equal partners in design and value creation.
A Path Forward
The story of Kolhapuri chappals reflects the broader struggle of India’s traditional crafts in a globalized, industrialized world. Revival efforts are underway through government initiatives for enhanced GI protection, design innovation—including new colors, embellishments, and even vegan alternatives—and greater emphasis on e-commerce and ethical branding by Indian labels.
Supporting authentic Kolhapuri makers is not merely about preserving a pair of sandals; it is about safeguarding an entire cultural ecosystem rooted in skill, sustainability, and community identity. As consumers, choosing genuine, GI-marked pairs from Kolhapur artisans or reputable heritage brands can help ensure this timeless legacy continues to walk into the future rather than fade into history.
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