Inside North Korea: The Four-Day Journey That Closed Its Doors Forever to an Indian Travel Influencer
When Bhuvani Dharan, known online as @tamiltrekker, set foot in North Korea, he entered one of the world’s most secretive and isolated regimes. His trip, which lasted just four days, would not only give him a rare glimpse into the hermit kingdom, but would also ensure that he—and most likely the rest of the world’s travel influencers—won’t be going back anytime soon.
A Journey Like No Other
In March 2025, Dharan was part of a small, exclusive group of 22 tourists and influencers from different parts of the globe, all eager to cross the heavily fortified border into North Korea. The group’s journey began in China, the only major gateway to the DPRK, from where they traveled to Rason, a special economic zone in the far northeast of North Korea, close to both Russia and China.
This trip was historic, as it was the first group allowed in since North Korea imposed strict COVID-19 lockdowns and closed its borders in 2020. It was also, unbeknownst to the group at the time, the last. While Dharan and his companions expected to see a tightly controlled society, nothing could fully prepare them for the extent of surveillance, orchestration, and the deep-rooted culture of fear that governed their every move.
A Land of Watchful Eyes and Curated Scenes
From the moment the group crossed the border, they were under unblinking watch. Each visitor’s electronics—phones, cameras, even chargers—were carefully inspected and logged. Every day, the group was accompanied by government guides, never left alone, and their activities followed a rigid schedule. Privacy was non-existent; even hotel rooms were subject to surprise inspections.
Dharan describes the experience as “living on a stage set,” where every interaction was carefully curated. At factories, there were always only two workers—one at the start and one at the end of the line, producing a single item for the group’s benefit. At schools, children would suddenly appear in classrooms or on basketball courts only when the group arrived, and would disappear just as quickly when they left. Street life, usually a sign of a city’s vibrancy, was entirely absent.
“Everything is orchestrated,” Dharan says. “There’s no spontaneity—no real life that we could see.”
The Cult of the Supreme Leader
Perhaps the most striking element of their visit was the omnipresence of Kim Jong Un and his family. The group was taught strict protocols for referring to North Korea’s leader—never “Kim,” but always “Captain” or “Marshall Kim Jong Un.” At the central square, they were required to lay plastic flowers at a statue of Kim, and bow deeply in unison. Those uncomfortable with the ritual were told to remain on the bus.
Failing to adhere to these rituals wasn’t just a matter of politeness; it was a test of loyalty that could have severe consequences for both visitors and their guides.
The Cost of Curiosity
For most travelers, visiting North Korea is a costly affair, and this trip was no exception. The total expense ran up to ₹4–5 lakh (approximately $5,000–6,000), with ₹1–1.5 lakh for the official tour package and the remainder spent on “souvenirs,” postcards, and unofficial transactions—often at inflated prices. Dharan attempted to send four postcards to friends and family back home, each costing nearly $100. Months later, none have arrived.
Life in a Bubble: Silence and Disconnection
Communication with the outside world is impossible inside North Korea. There is no mobile network, no internet, and every message, if permitted at all, must be vetted by authorities. The only exception came when the group briefly passed through the tri-border area, where fleeting Chinese mobile signals allowed them to catch up with global news.
It was here, ironically, that they learned tourism had been suspended again. The group realized they were the last foreigners to visit North Korea before another indefinite closure of its borders.
No Criticism Allowed
Before leaving, the group was issued a stern warning: Do not post anything negative about North Korea, or you will never be allowed to return. For Bhuvani Dharan, that restriction has already been enforced.
“I know they will not allow me back in,” he says. While his social media features a carefully curated record of his time in the country, he refrains from criticism, aware of the potential repercussions—not just for himself, but for his guides and anyone associated with his visit.
The Last Glimpse Behind the Curtain
Dharan’s four-day journey in North Korea reveals a country determined to control its image and narratives at all costs. Visitors are shown what the regime wants them to see—a country of happy workers, devoted students, and unwavering loyalty to its Supreme Leader. The real North Korea remains a mystery, glimpsed only through cracks in the stage-managed performance.
The message from Kim Jong Un’s government is clear: the Hermit Kingdom’s doors are closed once again, and outsiders who do not play by its rules are no longer welcome.
For now, Dharan’s story stands as a rare and timely glimpse behind one of the world’s most impenetrable curtains. And as the gates close, perhaps for years to come, the legend of what he saw—and was not allowed to see—will linger as a testament to both the allure and the dangers of travel in the world’s most secretive nation.
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