North Korea: Faces of an Alienated Country – A Glimpse Inside the Hermit Kingdom
North Korea stands as one of the world’s most isolated nations, a land ruled by a powerful dictatorship where the lives of its citizens are profoundly shaped by the political agenda of the Kim dynasty. This reality, where people suffer under international sanctions due to a ruler who instills terror in the world, forms the backdrop of a documentary journey into the world’s most secretive country, offering a rare look at the manufactured reality of its capital, Pyongyang.
The Privilege and Control of Pyongyang
Pyongyang, the heart of Kim Jong-un’s empire, is home to about three million people on the banks of the Taedong River. Life in the capital is not a right for all citizens; it is a carefully controlled privilege, with the government strictly controlling who is permitted to move and reside there. The day-to-day existence is tightly monitored, a fact immediately underscored by the omnipresence of propaganda. Workers on their morning commute are met by the so-called “motivational brigades,” groups cheering up the capital’s laborers.
For foreign visitors, the restrictions are absolute. Spontaneous interaction with the populace is forbidden. The documentary crew quickly learns that not only are impromptu interviews not allowed, but it is also simply not permitted for North Koreans to come in contact with foreigners, highlighting the comprehensive nature of the state’s isolationist policy.
A World Saturated with Loyalty and Propaganda
The entire city serves as a canvas for the regime’s ideology. Everywhere, huge portraits of the “big leaders,” Kim Il-sung and his son Kim Jong Il, the grandfather and father of the current dictator Kim Jong-un, dominate the skyline. The Arch of Triumph, dedicated to Kim Il-sung, is proudly presented as being five meters higher than its famous model in Paris. The goal of the youngest Offspring is clear: to establish a global power in sports, science, and economy.
This narrative is constantly reinforced by an information blackout. Independent media is banned, the internet is inaccessible, and the only sources of information are public newspapers that exclusively spread state-sanctioned propaganda. Even the Pyongyang Metro, with its stations among the deepest in the world—designed to provide shelter from air strikes in the event of war—is an extension of the propaganda state. Commuters travel in old Metro cars, purchased from West Berlin in 1997, where they are relentlessly exposed to the regime’s messaging.
The Showpieces of the Elite
The regime maintains a series of showpiece institutions to project an image of prosperity and a nurturing leader. The Kyongsang Kindergarten is a prime example. It is an even greater privilege to attend this facility, as it educates the country’s future elite. The children are described as highly disciplined; they are taken care of from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and taught sports to make them “healthy and resistant” so they can “continue to make our country flourish”. The talent nurtured within is prominently displayed, such as a five-year-old playing a Bach prelude, and an orchestra giving a special performance.
For the masses, facilities like the Munsu Water Park are intended to show the achievements of the regime. Workers are brought from all over the country to gaze in amazement, with the intended message being that if they work hard enough, they can aspire to the level of the people in the capital. Every service, even haircuts, is regulated. The hair salon at the water park offers 18 choices for women and 10 for men, with the implication being that choosing one of these styles shows loyalty to the regime externally.
The deep class divisions are hinted at in places like the Miriam Riding Club, a luxurious facility built by the Marshall. While an official claims the club was opened to provide every Korean with the possibility to ride, observations suggest that those on horseback belong to a higher social class, while those looking on are common people visiting from the countryside. The existence of these facilities is likely more about keeping the “idea of the ideal country alive” in people’s minds.
Loyalty and the Military Mindset
With 1.3 million soldiers, North Korea’s army is the fourth-largest in the world, and this military mindset permeates civil life. The recurring rationale for every activity, from sports to exercise, is the ubiquitous argument of a threat posed by the US. At a gym opened by Kim Jong-un, members are expected to train their bodies well to “strengthen socialism and to be prepared for the war against the United States”.
The regime’s focus on the military and state power is also seen in its flagship sports project, the Soccer Academy. Only about 30 children are selected each year for this elite school, where they receive maximum commitment and, crucially, maximum loyalty to the regime. The dictator himself is portrayed as a caring father, shown by an anecdote where he personally suggested building a roof over the training area to protect the children from the weather. Students are taught that they owe him special thanks and absolute loyalty.
The Reality of Economic Hardship and Class Privilege
While the regime parades its luxury facilities, glimpses of the underlying economic hardship are evident. At the Pothonggang department store, goods are offered, but price tags are removed. Citizens who can pay in the currency of the “big nemesis,” the USA—in dollars—are privileged. Everything beyond the state’s basic provision of rice and cabbage is expensive, particularly imported goods, with a can of Nescafe, for example, costing about $15 US, or more than 10% of an average monthly salary. Even in Pyongyang, apartments are often unheated and lack electricity.
The starkest contrast is observed during a visit to a private household. An upper-class family is selected to host the visitors in an apartment of an “incredible 2,350 square feet”. The grandfather, a professor, was rewarded for his loyalty to the regime with this rent-free residence. Yet, even in this privileged home, a large water bucket in the kitchen reveals that running water is not an everyday reality. Furthermore, the conversation is monitored not only by the official attendant but also by the “house manager,” who is part of the extensive surveillance state. The apartment owner, whose husband played on the temporarily unified national soccer team, repeats the required praise, stating that even though things may look more beautiful elsewhere, their country is the best because it is the only place where you can live “well and happily”.
The journey ultimately confirms the impenetrable nature of the North Korean system. Many things remain unsaid or hidden, as individuality is frowned upon and every citizen is required to unconditionally submit to the values of the Kim Dynasty, at least in their outward expression. That, the documentary concludes, is the number one rule in this mysterious country.