In the orchards of Murshidabad and Malda in West Bengal, a quiet but determined movement is underway to save some of India’s rarest mango varieties. Once prized by Nawabs and Mughal emperors, these heritage fruits nearly vanished under the pressure of commercial agriculture, which favoured high-yield, transport-friendly varieties. Today, passionate growers, heritage enthusiasts from the Sheherwali community, and discerning restaurants are working together to restore these delicate, fragrant gems to orchards and dining tables.
A Rich but Fragile Legacy
Historically, Murshidabad alone boasted nearly 200 distinct mango varieties, many developed through centuries of experimentation encouraged by royal patronage. These mangoes were celebrated not just for sweetness but for unique aromas, textures, and stories tied to local history. However, older trees fruit for only a limited period, and many heritage types bruise easily or have very short shelf lives, making them unsuitable for modern supply chains. As commercial orchards expanded, these rare varieties began disappearing.
The Growers Leading the Revival
At the forefront of the effort is Sanjay Dugar, a descendant of the Kathgola royal family. For over two decades, he has nurtured a 60-acre orchard around Kathgola Palace, sourcing saplings, grafting them onto sturdy rootstock, and replanting to replace ageing trees. Some of these saplings have found new homes in Kolkata landmarks such as Victoria Memorial and ITC Sonar.
Smaller efforts complement this work. Rocky Sk maintains a compact 0.62-acre orchard on the outskirts of Murshidabad, while Pradip Chopra, president of the Murshidabad Heritage Development Society (founded in 2010), has become a key organiser. The Society hosts the annual Murshidabad Mango Festival, often held in Azimganj or at Kolkata venues, where over 150 heritage varieties are displayed, tasted, and discussed. These events connect growers with enthusiasts and educate visitors on traditional care practices passed down by the Sheherwali community—Jain merchant families known for their deep horticultural knowledge, including feeding trees with milk and preserving fruit in rose water.
Planting typically occurs during the monsoon (May to August). Most rare varieties begin fruiting in early June and disappear by the end of the month, demanding precise timing and gentle handling.
Treasures of Taste and Aroma
The revived varieties offer flavours and fragrances rarely found in commercial mangoes:
- Kohitur: So delicate that it is often wrapped in cotton to prevent bruising from fingertips. Prized for its exceptional quality, it commands premium prices both locally and when exported.
- Champa: Known for its distinct frangipani-like floral scent.
- Bimli: Reddish-yellow fruit named after a gardener who impressed Mir Jafar.
- Nawab Pasand and Rani Pasand: Sweet, juicy, and fibreless, once favoured by royalty.
- Anaras: Carrying subtle pineapple notes.
- Kalapahar: Blackish-green skin with sweet-sour flesh.
- Mohanbhog: Rich, soft, dessert-like texture.
- Molamjam, Bira, Chandankosa, and others each bring their own intense aromas—sandalwood, intense sweetness, or delicate floral notes.
These mangoes require immediate consumption at peak ripeness, making them a true connoisseur’s delight.
Restaurants Create Demand
Culinary establishments are playing a crucial role by creating steady markets for these low-yield fruits. Amar Khamar in South Kolkata has built strong networks with farmers across Malda, Murshidabad, Birbhum, and North 24-Parganas. The restaurant sources varieties such as Bira, Molamjam, and Champa, ripens them carefully on-site, and features them prominently on seasonal menus. By highlighting forgotten flavours through farm-to-table initiatives, such restaurants provide growers with reliable income that commercial markets cannot offer.
Cultural and Economic Impact
Festivals, exhibitions, and institutional support from centres like the Malda Research Station under CISH have further boosted awareness. Public planting drives and heritage tourism are helping preserve both biodiversity and cultural memory. While challenges remain—particularly the fruits’ fragility and the long wait for new trees to mature—the combined efforts of dedicated growers, community organisations, and restaurants are ensuring that Bengal’s mango heritage does not fade into history.
As the early June season approaches each year, these revived varieties remind us that the most exquisite flavours often come from the most fragile sources—and that thoughtful revival can bring both economic value and cultural pride back to the land.
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