In the foothills near Texcoco, Mexico, just a short drive from Mexico City, a time-honored tradition unfolds every weekend. At El Pica 1, owned by Saúl Torres and his family, teams of dedicated cooks prepare approximately 500 pounds of lamb barbacoa using methods that date back centuries. This is not just food preparation; it is a cultural ritual rooted in Indigenous techniques, blending fire, earth, and patience to create one of Mexico’s most legendary dishes.

Barbacoa, the original barbecue of the Americas, involves slow-cooking meat in pit ovens. In Texcoco, renowned for its lamb barbacoa, the process transforms simple ingredients into tender, flavorful meat that draws hundreds of locals and visitors. Every weekend, nearly 1,200 people enjoy the results, with the restaurant often selling out by midday. The meat is priced around $10 per pound, served by the cut alongside rich consommé, fresh tortillas, salsas, and traditional sides in a lively, shaded outdoor setting filled with families and friends.

A Tradition Steeped in History

The word “barbacoa” traces its origins to the Taíno people of the Caribbean, who used wooden platforms over fire to cook meats. In Mexico, this evolved into pit-cooking methods practiced for over 500 years. Whole lambs, goats, or other proteins are wrapped in leaves and buried or sealed in earth ovens, allowing them to steam and braise slowly in their own juices.

Texcoco’s version stands out for its scale and fidelity to tradition. Located in areas like La Purificación, spots like El Pica 1 maintain underground or pit-style ovens that capture smoke, steam, and natural flavors. The maguey (agave) leaves are central—they impart a distinctive sweet, smoky note while helping seal in moisture. This technique produces meat so tender it practically falls apart, infused with layers of earthiness, chili heat, and herbal depth.

Saúl Torres and his crew approach this with pride and precision. As Torres has noted in interviews, success comes from consistent hard work rather than luck. The operation is a family and community effort, reflecting broader Mexican values of gathering around shared meals, especially on weekends after church or for casual celebrations.

The Multi-Day Process: From Fire to Table

Preparation begins early Friday morning at 8 a.m., ensuring the barbacoa is ready for weekend service. The restaurant operates about 11 pit ovens, each roughly three feet wide, designed for large-batch cooking.

Step 1: Preheating the Ovens
Large cuts of wood are loaded into the bottom of each pit, supplemented with cardboard kindling. The fires are lit carefully and allowed to burn for seven to eight hours. While the ovens heat, fresh maguey leaves are laid across them to roast until they become pliable. Timing is experiential—cooks judge readiness by sight, feel, and intuition rather than thermometers. This step builds the foundational heat and ember base essential for the slow cook.

Step 2: Meat Preparation
Simultaneously, 500 pounds of fresh lamb arrives and is broken down using machetes. Larger pieces are cut to fit efficiently within the pits, maximizing space and even cooking. The focus remains on quality and tradition, with no plans to scale beyond this volume to preserve the dish’s integrity.

Step 3: Assembling the Pit
Once the ovens reach temperature, excess wood is removed, leaving a bed of hot embers. Roasted maguey leaves line the pits. These leaves contain natural saps that, when heated with the embers, release sweet and smoky aromas that penetrate the meat.

A large steel pot filled with consommé ingredients—chickpeas, guajillo chilies, secret spices, and water—is lowered to the bottom. This broth will simmer below, steaming the meat above while capturing flavorful drippings and fat. A metal grill is placed over the pot to support the lamb. Stacks of prepared meat go onto the grill. Additional maguey leaves are then folded over the top like a natural wrapper.

Step 4: Sealing and Slow Cooking
A heavy metal lid covers the pit and is sealed tightly with wet mud and sand. This creates an airtight environment where the lamb braises overnight for about 11 hours. The meat cooks gently in its own juices and rendered fat, while the consommé below provides moist heat and infuses additional flavor. The result is incredibly tender lamb with balanced smokiness—no drying out, just deep, succulent perfection.

Step 5: Uncovering and Serving
By early Saturday or Sunday morning (service often starts around 7:45 a.m.), the pits are carefully opened. Dirt and seals are cleared, leaves lifted, revealing steaming meat. Workers scoop large portions into containers, allowing customers to select preferred cuts. The rich consommé is ladled into bowls as a hearty soup or dipping sauce.

The full spread includes warm blue corn tortillas, vibrant salsas, chopped cilantro, onions, avocados, chicharrón (crispy pork rinds), and refreshing pulque—a fermented agave drink sometimes flavored with fruits or nuts. Diners assemble tacos or plates under leafy canopies, turning the meal into a full-day social event. Many arrive early, and lines form quickly as the limited supply sells out.

Why Pit-Cooked Barbacoa Tastes Exceptional

The magic lies in the sealed environment. Moisture and flavors circulate without escaping, while the maguey leaves contribute subtle sweetness and prevent direct flame contact. Wood choice and ember management add layers of smokiness. Unlike faster modern methods, this overnight braise breaks down connective tissues fully, yielding melt-in-your-mouth texture.

Health-wise, the natural steaming retains nutrients better than high-heat grilling. The consommé, rich in collagen and herbs, is prized as a restorative broth. This dish exemplifies nose-to-tail cooking, minimizing waste and honoring the animal.

Cultural Significance and Visitor Tips

In Texcoco and surrounding regions, barbacoa is Sunday tradition—families gather, share stories, and recharge. It embodies community, patience, and respect for ingredients. Similar setups exist elsewhere in Mexico, but Texcoco’s scale and reputation draw food enthusiasts from afar.

If visiting El Pica 1 or similar spots:

• Arrive early (by 8 a.m.) to see the uncovering and secure the best selection.
• Bring cash and an appetite—portions are generous.
• Pair with pulque for authenticity, but pace yourself as it can be deceptively strong.
• Reserve private shaded tables if available for larger groups.
• Respect the process; this is a working kitchen rooted in tradition.

For home cooks inspired by this, approximations are possible. Use a large Dutch oven or slow cooker: season lamb shoulder or leg, wrap in banana or agave leaves (if obtainable), add a broth base with chickpeas and chilies, and cook low and slow for several hours. A backyard pit with fire-safe techniques can come closer, but nothing fully replicates the communal pit ovens of Texcoco.

Preserving a Living Heritage

El Pica 1’s commitment to 500 pounds weekly, despite high demand, highlights a philosophy of quality over quantity. Saúl Torres and his team exemplify pride in craft, passing down knowledge through hands-on labor. In a world of convenience foods, their method reminds us of food’s deeper role—as nourishment, connection, and cultural continuity.

Whether enjoyed in Texcoco’s vibrant setting or recreated at home, this lamb barbacoa represents Mexican culinary excellence. It is more than a meal; it is history, community, and flavor perfected through fire and time. Next time you crave authentic barbecue, consider the patient art of the pit—the original way that still defines weekends in Texcoco.

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