The Rise of LeRoy & Lewis: Exploring the World’s First Michelin-Starred Barbecue Restaurant

In the competitive world of Texas barbecue, where brisket and beef ribs have long reigned supreme, a bold new chapter has been written. LeRoy & Lewis Barbecue in Austin has emerged as a groundbreaking establishment, celebrated as one of the world’s first Michelin-starred barbecue restaurants. This achievement marks a significant milestone not just for the restaurant but for the entire American barbecue scene, proving that the humble art of smoking meat can reach the heights of fine dining excellence.

The story of LeRoy & Lewis is one of perseverance, creativity, and deep respect for ingredients. Co-owner and pitmaster Evan LeRoy, along with business partners Lindsey LeRoy, Sawyer Lewis, and Nathan Lewis, transformed a humble food truck operation into a Michelin-recognized destination. Their journey began in 2017 with a self-built smoker constructed in a driveway, embodying the DIY ethos that resonates strongly in Austin’s vibrant food culture.

Humble Beginnings and a Unique Vision

Evan LeRoy’s path to barbecue mastery was unconventional. With experience at notable spots like New York’s Hill Country Barbecue Market and Austin’s Freedmen’s Bar, he sought to carve out his own identity. The original pit was a 500-gallon offset smoker assembled affordably using basic welding skills learned from online tutorials. Paired with the cheapest food truck they could find, the team launched LeRoy & Lewis for less than $50,000 — a testament to resourceful entrepreneurship.

For seven years, they operated as a food truck, building a loyal following through innovative dishes and unwavering commitment to quality. In 2023, they transitioned to a permanent brick-and-mortar location at 5621 Emerald Forest Drive in Austin. This move allowed them to scale operations while preserving the soul of their “new school barbecue” philosophy.

What distinguishes LeRoy & Lewis from traditional Texas barbecue joints is their refusal to be boxed in by convention. Early on, some critics claimed their offerings “weren’t barbecue.” Instead of conforming, the team doubled down on creativity. They emphasize barbecue as a versatile cooking technique rather than a fixed menu of classics. This approach celebrates whole-animal utilization, seasonal ingredients, and modern culinary techniques applied to time-honored smoking methods.

The Whole-Hog Process: From Farm to Plate

Central to their menu is an extraordinary commitment to whole-hog cooking. A recent Food & Wine documentary provides an intimate look at the multi-day process. It begins with the arrival of heritage-breed pigs from Peaceful Pork near Corpus Christi. The relationship with this supplier dates back to a chance encounter with the rancher at a Willie Nelson concert — a fittingly Austin origin story.

Upon delivery, the hogs are meticulously broken down. Shoulders and middles often head toward pulled whole hog or bacon ribs, while hams contribute to sausage. Skins go into stock pots, yielding collagen-rich broths that enhance sides like pork hash. Nothing is wasted; every cut serves a purpose, maximizing flavor and minimizing waste.

Smoking starts in the early hours, often around 4 a.m., with carefully selected post oak wood. Pitmasters monitor moisture content closely, as it dramatically affects smoke production and temperature stability. The hogs smoke for up to 14 hours, resulting in succulent, multi-textured pulled pork featuring distinct strands of belly, flakes of rib, and tender shoulder meat.

Signature dishes showcase this philosophy:

• Pulled Whole Hog: Served daily, dressed simply with rendered lard, rice vinegar, and sambal for bright, balanced flavors.
• Pork Hop Sausage: Made with precise ratios from heritage pork, delivering juicy, flavorful links.
• Pork Hash and Rice: A comforting side enriched by gelatinous stock from hog skins.
• Hog Fat Cornbread: Infused with rendered lard for unparalleled richness.
• Creative offerings like pork smash burgers round out the menu, blending barbecue tradition with inventive twists.

This nose-to-tail approach not only stretches resources efficiently but delivers a dining experience where each bite tells a story of craftsmanship and sustainability.

Michelin Recognition and Its Impact

In late 2024, during the inaugural Michelin Guide Texas ceremony, LeRoy & Lewis received a star alongside fellow Austin spots InterStellar BBQ and La Barbecue, plus CorkScrew BBQ in Spring. These represent some of the first American-style barbecue restaurants worldwide to earn this accolade.

For Evan and the team of approximately 70 staff members, the star was vindication. It affirmed their sourcing standards, technical precision, and bold vision. The restaurant can serve 400 guests on slower days and up to 2,000 during peaks, with diners seeking not just a meal but “the best barbecue of their lives.”

The recognition has elevated standards internally. Staff push harder, striving for consistency and excellence. It has also drawn national and international attention, positioning Austin as a true barbecue capital with global appeal. Evan notes the star validated years of sticking to principles despite skepticism.

Beyond the restaurant, Evan shares his expertise widely. His debut cookbook, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, distills techniques and recipes developed at LeRoy & Lewis. Through YouTube channels and appearances, he demystifies whole-hog cooking and modern pit techniques for enthusiasts everywhere.

Why LeRoy & Lewis Represents the Future of Barbecue

Texas barbecue traditionally focuses on beef-centric dishes like brisket and ribs. LeRoy & Lewis honors this heritage while expanding it. Pork plays a starring role here, reflecting its dominance in barbecue traditions worldwide. By incorporating elements like precise butchery, charcuterie influences, and thoughtful seasoning, they create plates that feel complete and refined.

The restaurant’s success highlights broader trends: diners increasingly value transparency in sourcing, sustainability, and culinary innovation. In an era where food experiences compete with entertainment, LeRoy & Lewis delivers both substance and storytelling.

Operating hours are Wednesday through Monday (closed Tuesdays), with extended weekend service. Located just off I-35, it’s accessible yet feels like a destination. Expect lines, especially post-Michelin buzz, but the payoff is exceptional.

A Cultural and Culinary Milestone

LeRoy & Lewis’s Michelin star is more than an award — it’s a cultural shift. It challenges preconceptions about what barbecue can be and elevates pitmasters to the level of celebrated chefs. In Austin, a city known for its creative food scene, this restaurant perfectly encapsulates the blend of tradition, innovation, and community.

For travelers, foodies, and home cooks alike, LeRoy & Lewis offers inspiration. Whether visiting in person or experimenting with recipes at home, the lessons of whole-animal respect, precise smoking, and fearless creativity apply universally. As Evan LeRoy and his team continue refining their craft, they set a new standard for what barbecue can achieve.

In a world hungry for authentic yet elevated experiences, LeRoy & Lewis stands tall — a driveway smoker turned global icon, proving that with passion and persistence, even the most traditional foods can earn a place at the world’s finest tables.

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