When food enthusiasts talk about defining culinary experiences in New York City, the conversation inevitably circles back to hidden gems, avant-garde tasting menus, and neighborhood institutions that push the boundaries of comfort food. Yet, nestled within this dynamic landscape, a singular, jaw-dropping creation has captured the imagination of diners across the five boroughs. At Kabawa in New York City, Executive Chef Paul Carmichael has taken a traditional Puerto Rican masterpiece and elevated it to legendary status: the Chuleta Can-Can.

Weighing roughly a kilo—over two full pounds of bone-in, deeply savory pork—this dish is not merely a meal; it is an engineering feat. It unites the rib, the loin, the belly, and a thick, scored strip of skin into a single, cohesive presentation. For anyone who has ever suffered through a dry, overcooked pork chop at a run-of-the-mill steakhouse, Carmichael’s rendition serves as a masterclass in texture, moisture control, and bold, Caribbean-inflected flavor.

The Origins and Meaning of the Can-Can

To understand why this specific chop commands such reverence, one must first look to its cultural and structural roots. The name “Chuleta Can-Can” is as descriptive as it is theatrical. As the pork cooks, the carefully scored skin crisps up and flares outward, dramatically unfurling in a way that resembles the ruffled skirts of dancers performing the high-kicking French Can-Can.

Originating in Puerto Rico, this cut is essentially the ultimate expression of the pig. By refusing to separate the loin from the belly and ribs, butchers created a cut that offers multiple textural experiences in a single bite. You get the lean, tender chew of the loin, the unctuous, rich melt of the pork belly, and the crackling crunch of chicharrón-style skin. However, preparing a cut of this immense size and varied density presents a monumental culinary challenge. Traditional deep-frying—the common method in many traditional kitchens—carries a severe risk: by the time the massive center of the loin reaches safe cooking temperatures, the exterior can become leathery, and the lean meat completely dried out.

Chef Carmichael solved this riddle through a rigorous, multi-staged approach that balances patience with precise heat management.

The Anatomy of the Masterpiece

Crafting the ultimate Chuleta Can-Can requires exceptional sourcing and meticulous preparation long before the meat ever touches heat.

• The Sourcing and Scoring: Every great dish starts with exceptional raw ingredients. The cut must be thick, heavily marbled, and bone-in, ensuring that natural moisture is retained during cooking. The kitchen meticulously scores the thick flap of skin and fat. This scoring is vital; it allows bold Caribbean seasonings and aromatics to penetrate deep into the flesh while creating a grid pattern that guarantees maximum surface area for crisping.
• The Seasoning Blend: A robust rub of Caribbean spices, garlic, oregano, and salt is massaged into every crevice of the meat. This isn’t just about surface flavor—it acts as a foundational cure that helps draw out excess surface moisture, paving the way for a superior sear.
• Mastering the Thermal Gradient: Rather than dropping the heavy chop blindly into a deep fryer, the cooking process begins with targeted heat application. The skin side is seared and crisped first in a hot pan or specialized oil setup, rendering the thick layer of fat and locking in the juices. Once the exterior signature “can-can” flare is established and the skin achieves a shatteringly crisp texture, the chop is transferred to finish cooking via a gentle roasting method. This ensures the thick loin cooks evenly all the way to the bone without drying out.
• The Finishing Touch: No Puerto Rican-inspired masterpiece is complete without vibrant acidity and herbaceous brightness to cut through the rich, savory fats. Just before serving, the chop is kissed with elements like bright culantro oil and fresh herbs, providing a sharp, aromatic contrast that elevates the heavy pork profile.

Why the Chuleta Can-Can Captivates NYC

In a city saturated with culinary trends, the enduring appeal of Kabawa’s pork chop lies in its ability to combine comfort with precision. It is a dish meant to be shared, debated, and savored slowly. It challenges the preconceived notions of what a pork chop can be, transforming a humble cut of meat into a celebratory centerpiece.

For diners willing to venture out and experience it, the Chuleta Can-Can is more than just dinner—it is a testament to what happens when deep-rooted culinary tradition meets modern execution.

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