****
Chef Asma Khan, the London-based restaurateur behind Darjeeling Express and a star of Netflix’s *Chef’s Table*, knows Kolkata’s food scene like few others. Born and raised in the city, she returns often and has shared her personal favorites — places that blend childhood nostalgia, heritage Bengali cooking, and beloved street-style classics. Here’s her curated list of must-visit spots for an authentic taste of Kolkata.
### Kwality on Park Street: Nostalgic First Stop
As soon as she lands, Asma often heads straight to Kwality on Park Street. This iconic restaurant holds deep childhood memories and serves as the perfect introduction to the city’s vibrant, comforting flavors.
Signature dishes include chana bhatura with sliced onions and a squeeze of lime, chicken bharta in the classic Calcutta style, roghan josh on the bone, butter chicken, and an array of naans and parathas (the lal mirch version packs a welcome kick). Save room for the legendary tutti frutti ice cream — a glorious layered creation of pink ice cream, tinned fruits, jelly, cream, jam, cherries, and nuts that still tastes as magical as it did decades ago.
It’s the ideal spot for Punjabi-influenced dishes done with soul in a lively, old-school atmosphere.
### Sonargaon at Taj Bengal: Elevated Bengali Thali
For a refined celebration of Bengali cuisine, especially during Pohela Boishakh (Bengali New Year), Asma recommends Sonargaon at the Taj Bengal. The thali here follows the traditional sequence — starting with bitter notes and ending with sweets — creating a complete journey through regional flavors.
Highlights include shorshe bhekti (fish in mustard sauce), paturi (banana-leaf steamed fish), daab chingri (prawns cooked in tender coconut), aloo posto, mutton kosha, begun bhaja, and classic desserts like mishti doi, rasgulla, and nolen gur sweets. The elegant setting makes it perfect for a special family meal where heritage cooking is elevated without losing its soul.
### Aminia Near New Market: Timeless Mughlai Flavors
Opened on India’s Independence Day in 1947, Aminia delivers consistent, slow-cooked Mughlai dishes that feel generational. Asma praises the careful spicing and textures that have stood the test of time.
Don’t miss the crispy-yet-soft parathas, chicken or mutton chaap (on the bone with poppy seeds and onions), the subtle Kolkata-style biryani (with potato that beautifully absorbs the spices), firni served in terracotta, and rich kulfi. The historic location near New Market adds to the experience, making it a reliable choice for classic flavors.
### More Beloved Spots
– **Mocambo** (Park Street area): A continental legend since the 1950s. Asma recalls Eid memories here — order the prawn cocktail, chicken a la Kiev, and fresh bread rolls with Amul butter. Expect to queue; no reservations.
– **UP & Bihar Restaurant**: Her top pick for kathi rolls (try the double chicken, single egg version). She rates them higher than the famous Nizam’s, embracing the simple, rickety-chair vibe.
– **Breakfast dosas**: The Curry Leaf near her old apartment or Jyoti Vihar on Ho Chi Minh Sarani for crisp ghee roast masala dosas with coconut chutney. Pro tip: eat the potato filling separately to preserve the crunch.
– **Sweets and Snacks**: Gopal Chandra Halder Sweets or Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick for rasgulla, mishti doi, sandesh, and nolen gur delights. K.C. Das is excellent for seasonal kachoris filled with urad dal or hing peas, served with cholar dal and aloo dum.
### Chef’s Tips for the Full Experience
Asma emphasizes eating with your hands to truly connect with the food. Respect the traditional rhythm of a Bengali meal — bitter starters, balanced mains, and palate-cleansing spices before sweets. Kolkata’s cuisine is layered with emotion, history, and subtle spices rather than just heat. Many spots are queue-only and cash-friendly, so embrace the city’s energetic pace, especially around New Market.
Whether you’re craving nostalgia, refined thalis, or quick street bites, these recommendations capture the heart of Kolkata — the City of Joy — through the eyes of a chef who knows it best. For the complete story and Asma’s personal anecdotes, watch her feature in Condé Nast Traveler.
